Mopar ballast resistor wiring diagram diagram base website

The Jalopy Journal. Terms of Service. Privacy Policy. Log in or Sign up. Atomic Industries www. Register now to get rid of these ads! The H. OK I have a 59 Chrysler new yorker that I switched to electronic ignition and they had me get the orange box and ballast resister so I wired it up like the diagram but my question is the one side of the ballast that goes to the coil has the ignition start wire ran to it I ran it from the start position of my ignition and it want to start while it's running I take it I need to wire it to the starter relay that what when the starter is in guage it work because I believe I'm giving the starter power the way I have it ran Posted using the Full Custom H.

The ballast will be mounted next to the box once I get it all wired right Posted using the Full Custom H. Looks right to me. SlmLrdSep 2, I basically need to find out witch one of the post on the starter relay to run the start side of the ballast wire to Can you run both wires from the ignition switch or does the start wire have to be from the relay I guess is my real question lol Posted using the Full Custom H. It should be wired to the solenoid so it is only energized when the starter is turning.

The idea is to give the coil a full 12 volt jolt for hotter starting, then cut the voltage with a resistor while running, so you don't burn out your coil or points. Rusty O'TooleSep 2, SanDiegoHighwayman and loudbang like this. F-ONESep 2, I hate the wiring lol I'm very new also do alot of my questions might be stupid bit better safe than sorry I'm switching to a newer starter relay right now because I think mine is badThe Jalopy Journal.

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mopar ballast resistor wiring diagram diagram base website

The H. Ballast Resistor Keeps Buring Up????? My 55 Olds started running bad last week, so I popped the cap off of the distributor and the points looked burnt. No problem, I already had a 56 distributor that I bought a Mallory electronic conversion for. Although I noticed that with the ignition switch on that the ballast was getting so hot that it started smokeing with in a few seconds. So I thought that makes since, the resistor probably fried and then let the points burn up.

I jerked the 55 distributor out and stabbed the 56 in and picked up a new resistor, coil, and the external condensor on the coil. After I hooked everything up I tryed to fire it up and got some backfire, I went to turn the distributor alittle, when I noticed that my brand new ballast was smoking. I double checked everything, and it is all hooked up correct and there are no pinched wires.

It is all working, because I am getting fire at the plugs, but the ballast is getting to hot. I disconnected the coil from the distributor and turned the key on and it doesn't get hot, but with the coil hooked to the distributor it gets hot. It would make me think that the Mallory module is bad, but I am getting fire at the plugs and it did this with the other points distributor.

Nothing else in the circuit gets hot, and I it is getting normal voltage to everything.

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I cannot figure out what in the hell could be the problem. If anyone has a solution I would much appreciate it. Thanks, Dustin. Sounds like you have the output of the resistor going to ground somewhere. Disconnect the coil from the distributor and see what happens.

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If the resistor is still hot then it's a bad coil if not it must be in the module. It's been awhile since I've used a ballast resistor, but the best way to wire them is with a factory wiring diagram I remember BR's needing some extra wiring that didn't make sense to me, but worked just fine. It says that unless you use one of there matched coils that you have to use a ballast.

I did unhook the coil from the module and the ballast did not get hot, which would make me say that the module was bad, but it did this with the points still in it. Here is a the wiring diagram of how it is hooked up.

Are the little windings resistor touching the firewall? Double check that first. It has happened before to some people First off, the balist normally gets hot, the longer it is in use, the hotter it gets.

That is how they reduce the voltage, they generate heat.Our new search experience requires JavaScript to be enabled. Please enable JavaScript on your browserthen try again. Save mopar ballast resistor to get e-mail alerts and updates on your eBay Feed. Unfollow mopar ballast resistor to stop getting updates on your eBay Feed. You'll receive email and Feed alerts when new items arrive.

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All Listings filter applied. Buy It Now. Brand see all Brand. Chrysler 3. Delco Remy 2. Mopar Standard Motor Products 3. Unbranded 2. Warranty see all Warranty. No Warranty Mopar Wiring Diagram — wiring diagram is a simplified good enough pictorial representation of an electrical circuit.

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It shows the components of the circuit as simplified shapes, and the capacity and signal contacts along with the devices. A wiring diagram usually gives opinion virtually the relative direction and union of devices and terminals on the devices, to back up in building or servicing the device. A pictorial diagram would undertaking more detail of the creature appearance, whereas a wiring diagram uses a more figurative notation to highlight interconnections more than creature appearance.

A wiring diagram is often used to troubleshoot problems and to make clear that all the contacts have been made and that anything is present.


Architectural wiring diagrams behave the approximate locations and interconnections of receptacles, lighting, and steadfast electrical services in a building. Interconnecting wire routes may be shown approximately, where particular receptacles or fixtures must be on a common circuit. Wiring diagrams use suitable symbols for wiring devices, usually alternating from those used on schematic diagrams.

The electrical symbols not isolated deed where something is to be installed, but furthermore what type of device is subconscious installed. For example, a surface ceiling lively is shown by one symbol, a recessed ceiling fresh has a alternative symbol, and a surface fluorescent light has unconventional symbol. Each type of switch has a swing parable and hence do the various outlets. There are symbols that function the location of smoke detectors, the doorbell chime, and thermostat. A set of wiring diagrams may be required by the electrical inspection authority to take on board membership of the dwelling to the public electrical supply system.

Wiring diagrams will afterward count up panel schedules for circuit breaker panelboards, and riser diagrams for special facilities such as fire alarm or closed circuit television or additional special services. Nx Wiring Diagram Wiring Diagram 10 views. This website uses cookies to improve your experience.

We'll assume you're ok with this, but you can opt-out if you wish. Accept Reject Read More. Necessary Always Enabled.I tried this test, supplied 12 volts to on terminal, and got a 12 volt reading on the other side of the terminal, does this mean it is garbage, or does the resistor need to heat up, to lower voltage?

Check it with an ohmmeter.

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Not sure what the resistance should be, but it should be either good or bad. Not much in between, unless there is corrosion on it. If you put 12v in and got 12v out it is probably ok since a break in the resistor would yield 12v in and 0v out.

mopar ballast resistor wiring diagram diagram base website

Without a load on the resistor it acts just like a wire. You could do a resistance test because it could be shorted giving you 12v on each end but in my experience they break to an open condition when bad. The function of the resister is to reduce the input voltage from 12 to 6 volts.

When these resisters fail, sometimes they will only after being heated up. Years ago I had a Valient that would almost die after driving about 20 minutes on a freeway caused by the resister. The voltage will drop after the ballast heats up That is not the way it works. If there is a 12 volt starting boost it comes from a post of the selenoid.

The original 6 volt starter solenoid only has 3 posts. I installad a Ford 4 post solenoid. In the picture below the post without a wire connected is "hot" with 12 volts only when the solenoid is energised. After this picture was taken I ran a wire from this post to the power side of the coil.

By doing so I have by passed the resistor when the starter is spinning thus supplying a full 12 volts to the coil. The ballast resistor reduces voltage the instant it is powered up and current flows.

Thanx all, tested ballast today with Ohm meter, and get 1. The bottom line is this, the truck starter motor, does not use a solenoid switch, nor does it utilize a starter button, you simply have direct power to starter from battery, and the moment you push the foot pedal, the starter will crank the engine.

The ignition switch function simply turns the power on to the coil, to allow engine to fire or shut down. Now in order to have 12 volts to the coil, just wile engine is cranking, need to install a solenoid switch, or run a hot wire to the coil from igntion switch crank postion, to provide a full 12 volts to the coil. This I would have to hold the key in the crank postion, while I hit the starter pedal, then once engine starts,let key position slide back to the on position, to allow current to flow through ballast resistor to the coil, I might need a diode in that set-up, to stop current from flowing back to the ballast, while in the starter crank mode.

Installing a solenoid switch might work, but would still have to hold the key on crank position, while hitting starter pedal with foot, till she fires. Now what in the world did Dodge do for the or trucks wih 12 volt set-ups, when they used the foot pedal starters???

I think most of yall, are thinking with the cars, that used solenoid switches, and the starter buttons. Can I not just run the current throught the ballast, even for start up, or would it make it difficult to fire??????? It is not necessary to start on 12 volts. All 6 volt cars do not use 12 volts.

I ran for a long time before I added the 12 volt start option. I added it because the option was there to do so with the new 12 volt solenoid I bought. You do not need to do anything unless you want to. Okay, but the engine and operating system is and will be 12 volts, this includes the starter and alt, lights etc. I may wire in a by-pass circuit later, to allow my system to function as yours does. But for now I need to kow the way I have it set-up, that she will start, and of course will run, as I have described Thanx Bob, just hooked up a small 12 volt battery to 1 contact on the ballast, test meter to the other, and test meter ground to battery ground, and got 13 volts.

So this ballast is not resisting any voltage, and not dropping the voltage.

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I would have thought, the ballast would not carry any current, if it was toast, but i guess it still is, but not dropping any voltage.Jan 30, 1. Messages: Likes Received: Is the ignition switch supposed to put out 12v at both the "start" and "run" side of the ballast resistor when the key is in the "start" position?

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This is a 68 I tried to find this info in the FSM but could not. Jan 30, 2. Messages: 7, Likes Received: Agree x 1. Jan 30, 3. Okay, so if we don't get 12v on the "run" lead when the key is in the start position, but do get it when the key is in the run position, am I correct that would indicate a faulty ignition switch? Jan 30, 4. Jan 30, 5. Messages: 12, Likes Received: Jan 30, 6. Jan 30, 7. Jan 30, 8. Mike is correct.

And my reason for asking is similar to his, except in our case it's because we installed the Mancini HiPo electronic ignition kit a few weeks ago and everything seem to go flawlessly. Engine started and ran on the first try, set the base timing, road tested, etc. Then when we went to start the car a week or two later, it would crank but not start.

Yet you would hear a brief stumble when giving up on the cranking and switching the ignition key to OFF. Then I discovered that if you cranked it a bit and then just let the key drop back to RUN position, it would start and run. But then to make things even more odd, after we let it idle for a while, it would start while cranking as it should.At one point in time, points-type ignition was the pinnacle of ignition technology. Unfortunately, that was some fifty years ago and points have now become prehistoric.

In the twenty years after its inception, electronic ignition made its way on to millions of Mopar products. Timing in a points system is generated by strictly mechanical means. A cam with equally spaced lobes opens and closes the point contacts. Each time the points open, the coil releases spark to the rotor, and the rotor distributes that spark to the lucky firing cylinder via the plug wire. The downfall is that the cam lobes, point contacts, and rubbing blocks wear over time. This degradation can cause a narrowing point gap, retarded timing, increased dwell, and, eventually, a very poor-quality spark.

One major benefit of electronic ignition is that its non-contact within the distributor. A toothed reluctor wheel and magnetic pickup replace the lobed cam and points. The signal to fire is generated each time a tooth passes the magnetic pickup.

That signal then travels to the electronic control unit ECU that translates it into a message that tells the ignition coil to fire. All of this adds up to a more reliable, accurate, and consistent spark event. Both ignition methods incorporate a ballast resistor. Some resistors are fully potted while others leave the resistor wire exposed on the back side.

Full potting keeps the internal wire protected and helps dissipate heat.

mopar ballast resistor wiring diagram diagram base website

Next in line is a high-torque lightweight starter for the big B-body. Current owner Roy bought the B-body in and has not changed much over the years. The numbers-matching has remained largely unchanged except for a Weiand aluminum intake and a used dual-point distributor swap some fifteen or so ago.

A console-shifted automatic backs the big-block and sends power to a 3. Purchased with 98, miles on it, the odometer now shows somewhere aroundTop Left: First step of any electrical maintenance is disconnecting the battery. Top Right: Our old dual-points distributor that needs removed. That meant no flashy billet bodies, giant red caps, or aftermarket HEI conversions.

With that in mind, we sourced a Mopar officially licensed electronic ignition conversion kit from Proform Parts to give the tired more kick when the key turns. It was the perfect match with its unsuspecting tan cap and high-quality cast aluminum housing. Even a factory-style vacuum canister stuck out the side.

Those features coupled with the added performance and reliability of an electronic system made it an absolute no-brainer.

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Top : Our old dual-points distributor vs. Flanges are unpainted for grounding purposes. The new piece was fully potted for a long service life. Our first impression was very positive.

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